

Working with an assistant - usually his girlfriend - Shively makes pizzas as long as guests want to eat them: smoked salmon pizzas with creme fraiche and corn mushroom and winter squash pizzas with truffle oil balsamic red onion and fig pizzas with prosciutto and Bellwether Farms Crescenza cheese. And then, he says, "we cook our hearts out." Once it's in place, Shively builds the fire and sets up the work station with dough and toppings.

The oven itself is picture-worthy, a sort of miniature rustic church with white stucco walls, a copper roof and a tower for venting smoke. Typically, Shively's clients have him set his 1,500-pound oven in a picturesque spot, such as an orchard or a backyard garden. " his voice trails off, as if he's reliving that sublime food experience. When it's really crisp and crunchy and right out of the oven, and there's not even a waiter in between. You take it and eat it, and it should be a little hot, with just enough of that danger. "The thing that's so fun is you're right there," he says."You pluck the pizza from the mouth of the oven. Capitalizing on the current fascination with wood ovens in restaurants, Shively's small business is making converts to the pleasures of wood-fired cooking at home. He has fired up his oven for a Chez Panisse staff party in El Cerrito, for guests at the home of Esprit founder Susie Tompkins, for revelers at a wedding party in a redwood grove. The former restaurant cook has been hauling his homemade brick oven around the Bay Area to make wood-fired pizzas at private parties, giving new meaning to the concept of home delivery. Inverness residents aren't the only ones clamoring for Shively's services.
